11.24.2007
11.18.2007
The Winds of Change in Dubai - Not Quite Strong Enough Just Yet
For the past ten years now, I have been an avid observer of the development and changes in Dubai. Their growth has been staggering - its urban environment transforming at hyper speed. Having visited and written about Dubai on several occasions - I am mesmerized by this city and I continue to study it, analyze it, with equal parts of awe, amusement, incredulity and dismay.
The leaders of Dubai are on a mission to build a mythical tourist haven and an indispensable global financial and media center with the intention that these new industries and businesses will ensure Dubai's success and longevity long after the last drop of oil has been pumped out of the Gulf. And despite all the skeptics, they seem to be accomplishing their goal. Tourists are flocking to this desert city. They come for the shopping and the variety of environments they can experience. The financial and entertainment sectors are also flourishing. Multi-national corporations, media outlets all have a presence in Dubai. Their burgeoning art scene is also gaining prominence with respected auction houses setting up offices in Dubai.
And while I have often criticized the endless stream of skyscrapers and islands that are all under construction simultaneously in Dubai - these environmentally suspect projects continue to garner global media attention for Dubai. The Burj al Arab, the Burj Dubai and the Palm and World Islands are continuously being featured in newspapers and magazines around the world. Dubai is so successful with their current strategy that not only is their economy booming, they are also influencing and transforming the economies of surrounding Middle Eastern, North African and Asian countries - all eager to get a piece of that sumptuous pie.
There is however, one big pesky problem that just doesn't seem to disappear and continues to gnaw away at their image of this lush welcoming desert paradise - their questionable legal system that only seems to cater and serve the 15% local Emirati population, ignoring the 85% expatriate and migrant population that actually facilitate the smooth operation of the economy.
Over the past couple weeks I have come across several news items highlighting this problem - which will only continue to escalate with their expanding population and growing importance on the world's stage. Early in November, a bridge under construction in the Dubai Marina collapsed and killed 7 workers and injuring 15. This was not the first deadly accident on a construction site in Dubai. Independent organizations actually consider Dubai to be one of the most dangerous cities to work construction, with hundreds of deaths attributed to poor working conditions. Unfortunately, since there is an over-abundance of workers and no labor laws or unions, nothing changes. Any protests of unjust and inhumane treatment by the workers have resulted in instant deportation. In March of 2007, workers went on strike, blocking traffic, demanding better working conditions. They were all deported. On October 28th, 2007, thousands of workers persisted and went on strike again for two days demanding first to be paid and secondly higher pay. The 4000 workers who went on strike this past October will most likely be deported - UAE ministers have implied no less. However, in an attempt to keep workers in check, the government has agreed to minor changes. Instead of being paid cash by their employers, these workers will now be paid through a government run electronic system.
Then there is the rape of the 15 year old French-Swiss boy by 3 Emirati men that has made headlines globally. The boy's 3 hour testimony was initially disregarded by police. The police doctor claimed there were no signs of rape and instead threatened the boy with imprisonment. The Dubai police also concealed the fact that one of the Emirati men had AIDS. It was not until the attorney from the French consulate intervened that the police finally took note and arrested the three men. Veronique Robert, the mother of the boy has charged that the "whole political system" in Dubai tried to dissuade her from seeking justice. She has instead started a campaign to 'boycott Dubai.' In April of this year, Dubai's ruler, Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum acknowledged that their justice department was 20 years behind other government departments and called for the "highest standards of transparency and accountability."
Unlike the hyper-speed of construction and urban development in Dubai, legal changes are slow to advance. Meanwhile these incidents continue and global attention becomes more focused. And since Dubai's economy is utterly dependent on migrants, expatriates and tourists, the city-state cannot afford to continue to let these concerns slide. The momentum for change is building little by little. Dubai cannot continue to market itself as a luxurious, carefree destination where the sky is the limit while continuing to ignore that the human toll for this paradise is just too high.
11.12.2007
Photographs So Vivid It Aches: The Work of Luc Delahaye
I love it when you go somewhere, expecting to see one thing and find something else simply incredible. That is what happened to me last week. Fascinated by all aspects of cultural exchange, I went to the Getty Museum in Los Angeles to check out an exhibition titled "China on Paper." This exhibition demonstrated through various documents, prints and drawings the exchange between China and Europe starting in the late sixteenth century. There were interesting images of European villas and pavilions designed with a Chinese twist for the emperor of China. This collection of work demonstrated for me very well how long ago globalization really started.
Since I was already at the Getty, I decided to take in a few of the other exhibitions. Fortunately I wandered into the room housing the work of photojournalist extraordinaire (or now "artist" as he would like to be called) Luc Delahaye. The exhibition was called "Recent History: Photographs by Luc Delahaye." A handful of his photographs were on display covering the wars in Lebanon, Afghanistan, Rwanda, Chechnya and Bosnia. Each of these images spanned the entire of wall on which they hung. Each image capturing a quiet but horrific moment in recent history. They were powerful in their subtlety and profoundly moving. Beauty in despair.
Luc Delahaye born in France in 1962 and became a photojournalist in his early twenties. In the 1990s he was recognized for his coverage of the wars in Lebanon, Afghanistan, Rwanda, Chechnya and Bosnia. A member of the Magnum agency from 1994 to 2004, he worked either independently or was commissioned by Western news magazines such as Newsweek. Since then he has won numerous awards globally for his work.
Unlike the often sensationalized sound byte that we get on the evening news, he attempts to present these raw human stories from a different perspective than that seen in the media. While many of these news worthy events are familiar to most people, Delahaye's focus is on the ordinary or mundane within these events. [If there is such a thing in many of these locations.] Near life size, these images draws the viewer in, leaving the viewer struggling to grasp and fully comprehend the sight before them.
[I apologize that these miniaturized images do not convey at all the impact of the actual pictures.]
[© Luc Delahaye]
A Mass Grave near Snagovo, BosniaNovember 16, 2006. A team of the International Commission on Missing Persons (ICMP) at work at site #SNAO4ZVO
[© Luc Delahaye]
Jenin Refugee CampApril 14, 2002. The Jenin refugee camp, in the West Bank, after the battle between Palestinian militants and the Israeli Army.
[© Luc Delahaye]
The Registration of Internally Displaced People in Eastern ChadMay 27, 2006. Near the Chadian village of Koubigou, close to the Sudanese border; the registration of internally displaced people for the distribution of non-food items.
[© Luc Delahaye]
"A Conversation with Luc Delahaye" by Jörg Colberg, Pop Photo (June 12, 2007).
"The Big Picture" by Peter Lennon, Guardian (January 31, 2004).
11.10.2007
Sun, Surf and Seals
The call of the ocean is a large part of why I moved to the western edge of this continent...and why I am standing here at sunrise on this brisk morning. The hypnotic waves and the magnanimity and magnitude of the ocean always reminds me not to waste time fussing about petty insignificant problems. It's the best therapist....
Sunrise at Malibu Pier
La Jolla Cove
Seal Cove at La Jolla
11.06.2007
Living Large in Los Angeles
My first stop was the Greystone Estate. Where better to observe the lifestyle of the rich and famous than Los Angeles?
Greystone Estate located in Beverly Hills, was once owned by Edward Doheny who came out west in the late 1800's and made his fortune in gold and oil. Edward Doheny gifted the 12.58 acres of land to his son Ned in 1926. The
In 1965, the City of Beverly Hills purchased the estate. In 1976, the Greystone Estate was officially deemed a historic landmark. The house has been used as a backdrop for many movies including "Indecent Proposal" and "The Bodyguard."
On the day, I visited the Estate was also the day of the Design Showcase - where selected interior designers from around Los Angeles were given the task of redecorating the rooms temporarily. Thirty-two of the rooms were redone. While the designs were generally not awe-inspiring, there were a few rooms that were playful and animated that I enjoyed. (Who wouldn't like a swing in their room). I have included a few pictures of the redesigned rooms below. [ Valet's Bedroom (by Arlene Wexler)].
11.01.2007
Cross-Continental Travel, Anonymity, the Creative Process, Being English and the Dalai Lama - An Afternoon with Pico Iyer
For those of you who read fiction, 'travel writing,' Time Magazine, book reviews, Financial Times, the LA Times, Harper's, Conde Nast Traveler (the list is actually endless) will have most likely heard of Pico Iyer. I was first introduced to his writing, when rummaging through the shelves in Barnes and Noble in midtown Manhattan, I came across the book "Global Soul." (According to Pico, this is his least favorite book, but I am grateful he wrote it because it turned me onto all his other works). Since then, I have been an active reader of - "The Lady and the Monk," "Sun after Dark," "Falling of the Map," "Tropical Classical" and so on. One of my favorites is an article he wrote on "Why We Travel." When reading his writing, I appreciate his perspective, his observations, but most of all I enjoy the delicate manner in which he pieces together a sentence; the sound of the words, they way they flow side by side, their significance. It is so easy to get lost in his descriptions, that many a time, I forgot how uncomfortable I was in this crammed and suffocating subway during rush hour on my way to a job that was even more unbearable. Instead I was transported to the opposite side of the world - on a dusty and deserted road, or entering a temple in Kyoto....
Sometime ago, I was fortunate enough to be able to sit down with Pico Iyer to interview him and hash out an idea I had for a book. He was very generous to open up his home and his life to me. The following is a portion of the interview:
[Pico Iyer was born in Oxford to Indian parents in 1953. When he was seven his family moved to Santa Barbara, California. For more than a decade, he commuted between England and California, attending boarding school. He then went to Oxford University, studying literature. He pursued his graduate studies at Harvard University. Upon graduation, he worked with Time Magazine before launching his own independent writing career. Since then he has traveled extensively to places many people can barely identify in an atlas - each time to return to share his story.]
Deeba Haider (DH): How was boarding school?
Pico Iyer (PI): I felt a little homesick at first because my nearest relative was 6000 miles away – my parents in
DH: What made you decide to move back to this continent for graduate school?
PI: In
DH: It is becoming more alien to you because of your English upbringing or is there more?
PI: I think it is just that. I think it is just the phenomenon that maybe all of us as we get older, on some level return to and get consolidated with the culture that is deepest within us and that did most to form us. At this point in my life, I see that
One thing I also found - is my upbringing really made me comfortable being a foreigner to a point of thriving on a sense of being a foreigner and feeling most at home being a foreigner everywhere. What is most difficult for me is being a part of community and settling down. I realize that I am quite different from and curious for the people around me. I like being a foreigner in
DH: But technically, one could say that you never went home. Since you are ethnically Indian, your parents are Indian; technically
PI: Yes, I have always thought of that as an advantage in so far as living in
DH: You don’t feel the need to put down roots.
PI: No, really the opposite. I think at this point I have reached the realization that this will not abate as the years go on and I will grow more and more rootless. When I moved to
DH: Why Japan?
PI: I think it is just a mysterious affinity really. I can give reasons and say that it is for example quite similar to me to the
I think really at heart, it’s more got to do with my sense that most of us have homes or people with whom we are mysteriously connected, where you go to a place or you meet somebody and you instantly feel that you have known them forever. I am lucky enough that I can live in the place that has that strange connection for me. When I was growing up in this location where we are sitting, when I was 15, 16, I would look at Japanese paintings, I would feel this strange familiarity - this strong gravitational pull and then I decided to live in Japan, just because, when I was living in New York, I flew to Thailand and on the way back I had a twenty hour layover in Narita airport, so I went into the town of Narita in the morning, waiting for my plane back and on that morning, which happened to be an October day with the blazing autumn skies sending a chill to the air – on that day, I decided that I had to come back and live in Japan. So as soon as I freed myself from my job in
DH: Did your parents ever feel the need to teach you about where they came from?
PI: I think they struck a good balance. Actually, I am envious when you say your father felt you should learn Urdu and your mother, Chinese, because I think that is a nice inheritance. Oddly enough because my mother is from north
DH: That is very insightful parents
PI: Yeah, maybe I am projecting that on them
DH: Would you define yourself in relation to any culture?
PI: No, no, I wouldn’t. In my introspective moments, when I think about my make-up, I have my own ideas about which cultures have played a part in my formation, as I was saying before, and recognizing that
DH: In your day to day life, how much control do you feel you have over your cultural identity?
PI: Very, very little because I think, like all of us, I can see I am completely at the mercy of other people’s perceptions. Listening to my accent – nobody knows what to do with it. Some people say “oh you sound so American,” somebody said to me recently “oh you sound so Indian” – which is surprising because I never lived there. I regard it all as arbitrary. Again it has to do with those people’s perceptions. But I think that is changing so quickly – when I used to go to
DH: Has the food you eat been influenced by your travels?
PI: I eat at McDonalds.
DH: Shame on you!
PI: No-one can forgive me for that. But it has served me well. I eat fast food a lot. I always find what I want. And I love living in hotels. I was telling someone two days ago that because of my upbringing, I have never owned a piece of property. I have never been interested. I can’t even imagine the notion of having a house of my own – it has no appeal to me. But I love hotels. It’s the one luxury I indulge myself in. I’d gladly live my whole life in a hotel and to me that is the dream environment.
DH: Really?
PI: Whenever I go to any city, I often have very close friends there, and I always choose the hotel over the friends’ house. I like the sensation of being a temporary visitor and a guest – sort of this anonymous guest. I don’t like the sense of belonging. If I felt that I was belonging somewhere, I would probably jump on a plane and go somewhere else. So when I was in
DH: Are there rituals that you take from place to place?
PI: To some degree. I think being a writer is itself a form of worship and meditation – so the way that most people, wherever they are, will go for a run in the morning or practice their yoga. I think, for me my writing is a way of doing that. So wherever I go, if circumstances permit, I will sit down and write ‘till lunch time. That steadies me and grounds me and also makes me feel like I am there. It consolidates who I am. I am reading at the moment a biography of Graham Greene, and one of the amazing things was this part I was reading yesterday – he was 55 when he was writing ‘Our Man in Havana’. While he was doing it, he was almost constantly in motion. One day he is in
DH: Now I want to move onto your creative processes. How do you create? What is the process?
PI: For me it is just a matter of staying at your desk every morning and staying there for a long long time and sometimes one’s mind is lucid and all kinds of things are coming to it and sometimes it is foggy and nothing is coming to it. But I am the kind of person that practices diligence.
DH: Is that part of your training as a reporter where you have to produce something at the end of the day?
PI: No, I think it is just me. I’m lucky, I have very strict discipline - if you were to give me a million dollars or send me to an island tomorrow, my idea of happiness would be to go my desk in the morning. So I suppose that is an advantage.
DH: That is amazing, to be able to say that you are really blessed.
PI: Yes - I am doing exactly what I like. And that if I was broke tomorrow or if someone gave me a million dollars tomorrow, I don’t think it would really affect me particularly because, I would just keep doing what I like and hope that will allow me to live.
[Pico Iyer's new book titled "The Open Road" is on the 14th Dalai Lama and will be out Spring 2008].
DH: Why the Dalai Lama?
PI: Hmm… because he embodies so many interesting paradoxes of the world today. I am doing a chapter on him in the context of globalism - partly because he is one of the first global icons and then a chapter on him as a monk and then a chapter on him in the context of
DH: How did your father know him?
PI: He was interested in Buddhism, so even while we were living in
But to take that example, I decided that this would be a good thing and a fulfilling thing to spend time on and I have my 9 chapters worked out and I have begun sending notes whatever…but the hope is that any moment something will happen in the world or in me that suddenly will make me fill out all those chapters and guide me along and propel me into a sense of what I should be doing. So I make an outline to satisfy the lowest part of me and then I hope the highest will intervene and scribble through the outline. My sense of the creative process is that it is mostly clearing out a space and waiting. I remember when I first began writing, I think I read Hemingway who said something like, “I just want to be at my desk when the muse comes calling.” The hard thing is most days just saying from 8 in the morning to 5 in the afternoon, I am not going to do anything else and knowing that probably in that nine hour space there will only be about 2 hours, 3 hours maybe where something is happening; the rest is just frustration and waiting, but one has to leave the door open so that what ever will come will come….




